Whether you have just built a new home, or are considering a change to your current flooring, perhaps you are intrigued by the addition of wood. There is nothing more classic than hardwood floors. It is found in the most expensive of homes and lends a certain charm to every room. Real wood flooring, while beautiful, is also expensive. It may or may not be the right choice for you. This article will explore the terms laminate and wood flooring and why you should be familiar with their individual meanings.

Laminate flooring is a material that is manufactured to give the appearance of real wood without the hefty price tag. The most economical choice for homeowners on a budget, laminate flooring is featured in both natural and synthetic materials that are accompanied by a number of benefits. Laminate flooring is generally water resistant though some are more easily damaged by water than others. There are many brands of laminate flooring and most quality products offer generous warranty. Being prone to chipping and the inability to be repaired are among the disadvantages of laminate flooring. Generally if laminate flooring becomes damaged then the entire board must be replaced.

Real wood flooring, on the other hand, uses authentic wood to act as the home’s floor. Genuine hardwood floors are much more expensive than their laminate competitors, but offer several advantages if you can afford their higher price tag. Solid wood flooring, for example, offers the ability to sand the material numerous times. This allows for the easy removal and repair of surface problems or cosmetic imperfections. Wood flooring can be repaired multiple times without the need for replacement. At the same time, wood flooring is very susceptible to cracks and may easily react to the environment. If damp, wood tends to swell and may even suffer from rotting if not properly treated. Wood flooring can be difficult to keep in good condition, but there are products to help maintain its beauty. These types of wood flooring restoration products can easily be found online or at a local home improvement center.

The decision to purchase either laminate or authentic wood floors ultimately comes down to a simple case of economics. Solid wood floors can add significant value to a home but comes at an initially higher cost. Laminate flooring, on the other hand, gives you the appearance of authentic wood flooring at a smaller price. While laminate may not increase the value of a house in the same way as a real wood floor does, laminate flooring still lends style at a price that may be more affordable. For me the choice would be real wood even though it may stretch the budget. The choice is yours.

by Terry Weinheimer, The Weinheimer Group LLC
Pooling and water marking are forms of shading and pile reversal that the pile of a carpet can experience. Pooling and watermarking are one of the most aggravating and most understood problems in the carpet industry. Pooling can truly result in rapid ugly out of carpet. To pool a carpet need not be soiled nor does it require texture change due to abrasion or foot traffic. Pooling and watermarking is unrelated to a carpets cost, maintenance and traffic. The best and worst maintained carpets can pool. Carpets and rugs of any fiber and any construction can pool and water mark. The worst news is that you may be decorating your home for the first time and unless the carpet in the house has a history of pooling, no on can determine if it is likely to happen to your beautiful new carpet or rug.

My grandson Seth is a little rug rat that loves the water and so do these three bears. While they all appear to be having a good time pooling, this is not the pooling we are talking about.

Carpet pooling is an irreversible, localized change in the orientation of the pile of textile floors covering. The phenomenon has different names in different countries. The terms we are most familiar with in the United States and Canada are “water marking” and “pooling”.

With pooling, some carpets develop areas where the pile appears to have been stained by water, hence, “water marking.”

Some carpets may develop areas that appear dirty. The carpet in this photo is not dirty. The large dark spot is the result of a difference in light reflection due to the pile reversal.

At some installations this appearance takes months to develop. At other installations it develops so rapidly that the consumer believes it to have been there since installation.

The carpet in this picture developed a severe pooling within a week of installation.

The carpet in this photo started to show pooling about five months after installation.

At a single installation the carpet may be installed in several rooms with the condition only developing in one or two of them. The area the condition develops in may be either a major traffic lane or even under furniture.

This condition routinely crosses seams. It even crosses between different color and styles of carpet and maintains a uniform pattern.

The photograph above shows an interface which is a narrow, conspicuous, irregular shaped serpentine line. This interface is often seen with pooling. The pile on the left side sweeps to the left. The pile on the right side sweeps to the right. The interface in the center sweeps upward and the pile in the interface has become very stiff feeling as if it had been starched.

Common Identifying Characteristics of Pooling

• Areas of carpet may look wet as though someone has spilled water on it but the carpet will be perfectly dry.
• Areas reverse in shade when viewed from opposite directions. When the areas are brushed with the hand a sharp difference in pile direction can be seen and felt.
• A narrow, conspicuous, irregular shaped serpentine line (referred to as an interface) usually develops at the edge of the pooled area. The pile at the narrow interface will run in a direction yet. The pile on both sides of the interface will be strongly oriented in opposite directions. As an example the pile at the interface may be oriented north while the pile on one side of the interface is facing east and on the other side it is facing west.
• Water marking often gives the carpet a highly objectionable appearance. Some carpets become downright ugly appearing as if it has been badly stained or allowed to become filthy within a short time of installation. As objectionable and as rapidly as this appearance change may occur, carpet manufacturers consider it a site-related condition and with rare exception will they offer the consumer any type of an adjustment. Water marking is a condition that cannot be permanently corrected.

The CRI States that Pooling is a Site Related Condition

The Carpet and Rug Institute in its manual titled Pile Reversal (“Shading”, “Water Marking”) states: At the present time, the only conclusion which can be drawn is that pile reversal may develop on the surface of some carpet after it is installed, and that pile reversal is not due to the materials which are used to produce the carpet, the manufacturing process, or any combination of these factors.

Some of the more common reasons Water Marking (Pooling) are considered site related is:

• Carpet off of the same roll is installed in different areas and the condition only develops in some areas.
• The condition will cross seams between different color, styles, and textures of different manufactures.
• The condition can sometimes be seen on installed carpet and an area rug above it.
• Replacing the carpet with another carpet of any fiber will often result in a repeat of the same condition. Pooling (Water Marking, Pile Reversal)Pooling and water marking are forms of shading and pile reversal that the pile of a carpet can experience.

Considering a new hardwood floor? Here are some answers to frequently asked hardwood questions that have been provided to us by the American Hardwood Information Center.

Does sunlight lighten or darken a floor’s color? Does it depend on the species, the stain or the finish?

The ultraviolet rays that can burn and age our skin will affect any organic material, including wood. That’s why the finest art collections are kept in rooms without windows. Prolonged exposure to sunlight will change the color of virtually any wood floor, regardless of the stain or finish. Some woods lighten when exposed to sunlight. Others, like cherry and oak, tend to darken. The newest water-based urethane finishes seem to slow color changes more effectively than oil-based urethane finishes, which tend to turn the brownish-yellow color of amber. Some finishes feature sunscreens to help block the penetration of ultraviolet rays, extending the time it will take the wood to change.

If you’re especially concerned about your floor changing color, consider installing curtains or blinds that will limit exposure to sunlight. Windows also can be fitted with thin films of plastic that block ultraviolet rays. This type of screen — similar to those on used on some car windows — will protect your floor, furniture, drapes, upholstery and artwork from sunlight.

Is a hardwood floor a good choice for someone with allergies or asthma?

You bet. Allergists often recommend bare floors, which reduce the chance for animal dander, dust, pollen or molds to collect. Respiratory experts say as much as one-fifth of the U.S. population suffers breathing difficulties caused by allergies and asthma, often triggered by microscopic dust mites that colonize bedding, curtains and carpets. Bedding and curtains can be laundered, but because frequent vacuuming is ineffective against dust mites in floor coverings, many immunologists and allergists suggest bringing hardwood floors out into the open.

If I have a urethane finish on my hardwood floor, can I use oil-based paint for stencils?

You can, but it may not be the best choice. Many professionals avoid working with oil-based paints because they are harder to clean up and take longer to dry. With water-based paints, smudges and spills can be wiped away easily with a damp cloth. Water-based paint can be applied over oil-or water-based urethane finishes. For best results with opaque paints, consider first applying a white primer. Let the paint dry thoroughly before applying at least two protective top coats that are the same type of urethane as the base coats. Oil-based paints that are just the slightest bit wet will smear when you apply an oil-based urethane topcoat. If you aren’t sure whether your paint and urethanes are compatible, contact the manufacturers of your materials. Also, always test for compatibility by applying a little paint and finish on an extra board or in an inconspicuous spot such as a closet corner.

Are steam cleaners an effective way to keep wood floors clean?

Some models are designed for use on hardwood floors. Others are not. Check with the manufacturer to find out if your cleaner is appropriate for use on your wood floor. Remember that water is wood’s No. 1 enemy. If the finish is worn or scratched, steam could seep into your wood floors, eventually causing damage. Keep in mind that experts say the best way to clean a wood floor is to wipe up any spills immediately with a soft, dry cloth. Sweep floors regularly with a broom, dust mop or canister vacuum with special hardwood floor attachments. Do not use a vacuum with beater bars. They can cause dent your floor’s finish.

If I buy a home with hardwood floors, how can I tell if they have a wax or urethane finish?

Urethane is one of the most popular finishes in use today. An easy way to determine if your floor has this type of finish is to apply a small amount of paint remover to the floor surface. If the finish bubbles up, it is most likely a urethane. You can also try scraping up a bit of the finish with a sharp blade (also in an area hidden from view.) If you can scrape up a clear material, the finish is likely urethane.

The finish is probably wax if you can feel the wood grain when you run your hand over the floor surface. Another test is to select an inconspicuous area and try to smudge the floor surface with a fingertip, or scrape the surface with a fingernail or sharp instrument. If the floor smudges, but no clear material is scraped up, the finish is probably wax.

If you’re not certain after trying these tests, contact a reputable floor refinisher. Professionals with years of experience easily can determine a floor’s finish.

What are mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil? How about rottenstone and pumice?

–Mineral spirits are used to thin or clean up oil-based paints, stains and finishes. They also can be used to remove wax buildup on furniture and floors. Boiled linseed oil is a yellowish drying oil that serves as a lubricant. (Do not boil linseed oil: it has already been boiled.) Both of these materials can be found in the paint section at Lowe’s, Home Depot and other home centers.

Rottenstone is a fine, abrasive limestone powder. Pumice is an abrasive (harder than rottenstone) derived from volcanic glass. Either one of these abrasives can be mixed with linseed oil and rubbed on furniture to remove stains and marks caused by moisture or heat. Woodworking suppliers sell these products in stores and on the Internet. Some paint and hardware stores also carry them.

For more free information about hardwood floors, furniture, moulding or cabinets, visit the Hardwood Information Center.

Understanding and Minimizing Veneer Checking on Furniture Panels
A commonly occurring and costly problem in wood furniture manufacturing is the development of small cracks in the furniture’s finish called veneer checks. Veneer checks usually appear as uniformly spaced hairline cracks in the finish or, in severe cases, cracks with accompanying ridges on the wood surface which actually can be detected by touch. In any case, veneer checks always run parallel with the grain of the wood (Figure 1), a characteristic that can be used to distinguish veneer checks from other defects. Random orientation of cracks in the finish (not parallel to the wood grain) generally indicates non-wood-related causes.

Figure 1. Veneer checks appear as small, uniformly spaced, cracks in the finish which run parallel with the grain direction of the wood.

Veneer checks are formed when stress failures occur in the face veneer, caused by differential shrinkage or swelling between the face veneer and the panel substrate to which it is applied. As the relative humidity of the environment (in which a panel is used) changes, so does the moisture content of the panel. With wood, changes in moisture content mean shrinkage and swelling. Unfortunately, when a veneered panel shrinks or swells, the veneer does not “move” at the same rate as the substrate. This creates considerable stresses within the panel which, if great enough, result in wood failure. Failure will occur at the weakest part of the wood which is generally over deep lathe checks, large pores, or other weakened areas on the face veneer. Such failures in the face veneer then create stress concentrations in the finish which result in the visible cracks we call veneer checks (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Veneer checks are the result of wood failure in the face veneer caused by stresses created from shrinking and swelling of the wood. These failures create stress concentrations in the finish which result in cracks in the finish.

There are many factors which contribute to the formation and severity of veneer checks. For example, veneer checking can result from improper manufacturing practices, poor warehousing conditions, or harsh environments in the consumers’ homes. It is usually very difficult, if not impossible, to determine the exact cause of checking for any given incident. However, experience and research have taught us some of the most common and severe influences of veneer checking. These will be discussed below.

The Veneer

The quality, species, and cut of the face veneer all influence the tendency for veneer checking to occur. Tight-cut veneer (veneer with shallow lathe checks or knife marks), has been shown to perform better than loose-cut veneer (deep lathe checks). Likewise, species of wood with fine pores check less than wood with large pores. This is because deep lathe checks and large pores create weak spots on the face veneer which provide less resistance to failure when the face veneer is under stress (Figure 2).

Veneer with straight grain (radial face) has been shown to check less than veneer with a cathedral grain (tangential face). This is because shrinkage in wood is much greater tangentially than radially. Greater shrinkage creates greater stresses and thus, a higher chance of wood failure in the face veneer.

Moisture Content

The most critical factor in preventing veneer checks is control of moisture content, not only of the panel components, but of the finished product as well. Checking only occurs when there is shrinking or swelling of the wood. Likewise, the severity of checking is related to the degree of shrinking or swelling. By controlling the shrinking and swelling of the wood (i.e., controlling the moisture content), the propensity of checking is reduced.

Before panel assembly, the face veneer and substrate should be dried to a moisture content appropriate for the conditions in which the final product will be used (6-8% is most common). It is imperative that the veneer and substrate be at the appropriate moisture content at the time of pressing. The phenomenon of veneer checking is exaggerated when the face veneer and substrate possess different moisture contents (not dried for the same final atmospheric conditions) at the time of panel pressing (or more specifically, at the time of bond formation of the glue line). In such a case, the dimensional change of the face veneer relative to the substrate is more severe, creating greater stresses, and thus, increased checking.

Manufacturers attempting to carefully control moisture content often overlook certain practices which adversely alter the moisture content of once properly dried panel components. For instance, veneer and panels are often stored in areas with no environmental control. In uncontrolled conditions, wood changes moisture content at a surprising rate. Even in environmentally controlled plants, certain areas may be inadequate for wood storage. For example, veneer stored next to hot presses may lose moisture driven off by the radiating heat. The manufacturer often does not realize that moisture content has changed and assembles the panel, only to have problems later. The solution is to store wood components in an environmentally controlled atmosphere, and check moisture content before panel assembly.

Another consideration often overlooked by manufacturers is the effect of the glue on veneer moisture content. If a high water content adhesive is applied to the veneer, especially with a long assembly time, the veneer can pick up considerable moisture before pressing. Avoiding high water content adhesives, thick spreads, and long assembly times will reduce the likelihood of veneer checks. Manufacturers should consult with their adhesive suppliers, however, before making such alterations.

Once panels have been assembled, it is important that they be conditioned in an environmentally controlled area to allow for the temperature and moisture balances to reach equilibrium. Two days is a common minimum conditioning time.

Finally, the finished product must be stored in an environmentally controlled area. Too often, properly manufactured furniture is stored in a warehouse with no environmental control. Some believe that the finish protects the furniture from moisture changes, so storage conditions are not important. This is not true. Although the finish helps to slow moisture movement, it does not prevent it. Furniture stored in adverse environments will surely check. Plastic wrap around the finished product prior to warehousing will help prevent moisture from damaging the furniture. Manufactures should realize that veneer checks may also occur if the final product is used by the consumer in a different or harsh environment, even if checks were not visible when the furniture left the plant.

Panel Construction

There is also a relationship between panel construction and veneer checking. Panels should be constructed with the tight-side of the face veneer up (lathe checks down) when possible. Tight-cut veneer should be used when veneer matching makes it impossible for the tight side to be laid up. The panels should not be over-sanded, especially to the point of exposing lathe checks. Poor glue bonding has also been correlated with veneer checking. Poor glue bonds may be caused by inappropriate moisture content and temperature of panel components; improper glue mix, glue spread, assembly time, and press time; thick and thin veneer or panel substrate; among other factors. Some research suggests that five-ply construction is less prone to checking than three-ply, and hot pressed panels are less susceptible to checks than cold pressed panels. Evidence also exists that a water rinse after bleaching may also increase the chance of veneer checks.

This report presents a brief explanation of the causes of veneer checks, and discusses some of the major factors which have been shown to correlate with veneer checking. By no means, does this report attempt to address all causes of veneer checking. However, it does provide information which, when combined with logical reasoning, can help manufacturers better control veneer checking problems. By better understanding veneer checking, and taking steps to prevent it, the conscientious manufacturer is sure to reduce problems associated with this expensive defect.

(January 1997)

by

Craig L. Forbes

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