Flooring Trade Associations and Resources

AFA - American Floorcovering Alliance(formerly DFCMA) is located in Dalton, Georgia, the carpet capital of the world was formed in 1979 to promote the floor covering industry. AFA, a not for profit association, promotes the industry’s products and services to the world, and educates the members and others through seminars, press releases, and trade shows.

AFMA - American Fiber Manufacturers Association: Since 1935, the Fiber Economics Bureau has been the only source of direct statistics on the United States manufactured fiber industry and its products - acrylic, nylon, polyester, olefin, rayon, glass fiber, and others.

AIA - American Institute of Architects comprises some 300 component organizations (chapters) across the country and around the world to serve the needs of U.S. architects at the national, state, and local levels, including American architects working in foreign locales. These components may be of assistance to individuals seeking information about architects in specific areas.

ALSC - American Lumber Standard Committee, Incorporated is the basis for the sale and purchase of virtually all softwood lumber traded in North America. The ALS system also provides the basis for acceptance of lumber and design values for lumber by the building codes throughout the United States.

APA - The Engineered Wood Association, a non-profit trade association with 70 years of experience, is the authoritative source for information on structural wood products.

ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials: ASTM International is one of the largest voluntary standards development organizations in the world-a trusted source for technical standards for materials, products, systems, and services.

AWMA -  American Walnut Manufacturers Association is an international trade association representing manufacturers of walnut lumber, dimension lumber, veneer, walnut squares, and gunstock blanks. The association was first organized in 1912.

CHPVA - Canadian Hardwood Plywood and Veneer Association is the national association representing the Canadian hardwood plywood and veneer industry in all technical, regulatory, quality assurance, and product acceptance.

CSACP - Canadian Stone Association has brought together more than 100 companies engaged in various stone-related activities. The Association’s primary mission is to sponsor and conduct activities and events aimed at promoting its members’ products and services; to facilitate the exchange of information concerning the stone industry and to express members’ views and interests known among regulatory and governmental bodies.

CCC - Carpet Cushion Council provides carpet cushion manufacturers, distributors, dealers, and installers with information that helps them understand, sell and install separate carpet cushion. Council members include U.S. and Canadian manufacturers of prime polyurethane foam, bonded polyurethane, sponge rubber, natural fiber and synthetic fiber cushion. Cushion industry suppliers such as chemical producers and equipment suppliers also are members of the Council.

CFI - Certified Floorcovering Installers Association was founded in November of 1993. It is a organization devoted to carpet installers. Besides certifying and training installers they also help set the standards for quality installations. There are 41 Chapters and new ones forming that provide a source for continuing education, problem solving and the sharing of ideas between professional commercial and residential Installers.

CRI - Carpet and Rug Institute is the issues-oriented national trade association representing the carpet and rug industry. Headquartered in Dalton, Georgia, the Institute’s membership consists of manufacturers representing 95% of all carpet produced in the United States, and suppliers of raw materials and services. This is also a wonderful resource for consumers wanting more information on carpeting.

CTEF - Ceramic Tile Education Foundation was created to establish a local, regional, and national educational and training programs for consumers, installers, contractors, and sales associates interested in the installation of ceramic tile.

DFCMA - Dalton Floor Covering Market Association - the (formerly CMMA) was formed in 1979 to promote the carpet & rug industry, its’ products and services, and to educate the members and others through seminars, press releases, and trade shows.

EPLF - The Association of European Producers of Laminate Flooring - The Association of European Producers of Laminate Flooring was founded in 1994 in Bonn, Germany. Currently, some 20 companies producing and marketing laminate flooring on their own account and with their headquarters within the European Union are regular members of EPLF. The Association only accepts such manufacturers as are committed to high standards of quality and implement suitable production processes.

EBS - European Bamboo Society is an informal federation of national European bamboo societies, each of which has its own administration and membership.

FIANA - Flooring Installation Association of North America provide the flooring installation industry a forum for manufacturers and distributors alike to discuss mutual solutions to industry situations that may develop, as well as fostering communications between these two groups.

FCICA - Floor Covering Installation Contractors Association - to further all aspects of professionalism, quality and profitability in the floor covering industry in order to provide a support mechanism for its members and ensure customer satisfaction.

FCITS - Flooring Consultants and Inspection Training Service, was established in 1988 under the name Floor Covering Institute of Technical Services, Inc. The FCITS offers inspector training and certification.

HMA - Hardwood Manufacturers Association sponsors the Hardwood Information Center gives a wealth of information about hardwood floors, including tips for designing, buying and maintaining hardwood floors.

Hardwood Council, The: Founded in 1993, the Hardwood Council is a coalition of 11 hardwood lumber and product associations. The Council provides technical information on North American hardwood applications for builders, architects, interior designers and others.

HOVA - Hardwood Plywood & Veneer Association promotes the interests of its members and the hardwood plywood, veneer and laminated wood flooring industries. The Association not only obtains and disseminates practical business and educational information, it also develops industry statistics. HPVA also strives to keep members abreast of the latest developments and new technology affecting the industry as well as promoting the sale of its members products.

IICRC - Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification - (IICRC) is a nonprofit certifying body for the inspection, cleaning and restoration industry. classroom study, pass a comprehensive examination, both written and practical, and submit a minimum of ten inspection reports for review by their peers. In addition, they must adhere to the IICRC Code of Ethics.

International Designers Guild - is an alliance of the most exclusive decorative floor covering showrooms in the world. It aim is to be the definitive measure of excellence in fine floor showrooms.

MFFA - Maple Flooring Manufacturers Association - Founded in 1897, the Maple Flooring Manufacturers Association has established itself as the authoritative source of technical and general information on maple sports flooring.

MIA - Marble Institute of America promotes the use of natural stone and be the authoritative source of information on the standards of workmanship and practice and suitable application of stone products.

NAFCD - National Association of Floor Covering Distributors was organized to foster trade and commerce for those having a business, financial, or professional interest as wholesale distributors and manufacturers of floor coverings and allied products.

NICFI - National Institute of Certified Floorcovering Inspectors is a non profit organization for Certified Floor Covering Inspectors. The NICFI provides affordable education for the inspector, and a free referral service for end users.

NTC - National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades offers consultation and training for the stone industry and has a broad selection of information available for the industry and consumers alike.

NWFA - National Wood Flooring Association is a non-profit trade association representing all segments of the wood flooring industry, including manufacturers, distributors, retailers and installers. The NWFA’s mission is to be a leading resource of accurate and expert wood flooring information for the consumer and the wood flooring industry.

NOFMA - The Wood Flooring Manufacturers Association, previously known as the National Oak Flooring Manufacturers Association has been a voice of authority for the wood flooring industry since 1909. NOFMA is the only organization to establish and actively enforce grade rules and quality standards for most domestic species of wood flooring.

NTCA - National Tile Contractors Association was organized and chartered in 1947. The National Tile Contractors Association is a non-profit trade association serving every segment of the industry, and is recognized as the largest and most respected national tile contractors association in the world.

NALFMA - North American Laminate Flooring Association was formed in 1997 by US and Canadian manufacturers and importers of laminate flooring. The primary purpose is to create voluntary product performance standards for laminate flooring in North America.

PFA - Polyurethane Foam Association has a web presence to provide information on key issues and product characteristics that may be of interest to flexible polyurethane foam users, researchers and academia.

TTMAC - Terrazzo Tile and Marble Association of Canada was founded in 1944. It’s mandate was to develop a method of standardizing terrazzo, tile and marble installation techniques, as well as being a technical resource and liaison for architects, designers and engineers.

TCA - Tile Council of America is a national trade association dedicated to expanding the market for ceramic tile manufactured in the United States of America.

WFCA - World Floor Covering Association the industry’s largest advocacy organization representing specialty floor covering retailers.

Cleaning Hardwood and Bamboo

With the many varieties of wood, there are many natural colors and these can be stained to a completely different color. 

Bamboo is a light color naturally. During manufacturing, all strips are subjected to a bleaching process where strong oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide are used to suppress color differences and oxidize troublesome organic matter. During this process, care must be taken not to soften the bamboo or leave residual oxidizing agents that can react with finishes and cause them to peel at a later date.

Most manufacturers have both a light and a dark color.  The dark color is obtained not by staining but by carbonizing.  A variety of finishes are used with site finished and factory finished floors. 

Penetrating Seal: The sealer penetrates into the wood or bamboo where it hardens.  Since the sealer has penetrated it will wear only as the floor wears.  Penetrating sealer will not chip or scratch.

Maintenance

• Usually maintained with a thin application of wax.
• Refinish worn areas by cleaning and applying another coat of sealer or using a reconditioning product.  Sanding will usually not be required. 
• With a sealer/wax system two coats of penetrating sealer is recommended by most manufacturers.

Polyurethane “Swedish finish”, moisture cure urethane and water-based urethane are a few of the many blends of synthetic resins, plasticizers and other film-forming ingredient.  Is polyurethane is durable and moisture resistant, available in high, low and semi gloss.  Urethanes other than moisture cured are a good choice for higher moisture areas such as kitchens.

Oil Modified Polyurethane: Durable and moisture resistant.  Usually will take on an amber color with age.

Water Bases Urethane Acrylic: Clean I color, non-yellowing and durable.  Has similar advantages to oil modified without the odor of mineral spirits during application.

Moisture Cure Urethane: Hardens with a greater moisture resistance than the other surface finishes.  Usually available only in gloss.

“Swedish Finishes” (Acid cure urethane): Durable finish, usually harder than polyurethane’s, resist yellowing, clear in color.

Polyurethane with aluminum oxide: Exceptional hardness, more scratch resistant and longer gloss retention.

Stain & Wax Finish

Maintenance

• Following installation apply a coat of wax.
• Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove loose dirt before it scratches or gets ground into the surface.
• Buff floor between waxing to restore sheen.  A heavier buffing machine will give a higher sheen than a lightweight machine.  Use only fiber bristle brush.  Frequent waxing may be required in dry or damp weather climates or areas of high traffic.

Urethane Floors

Maintenance

• Clean per manufacturer recommendations after installation.
• Sweep and vacuum regularly.

Maintain with a manufacturer recommended product.

Hardwood Do’s and Don’ts

DO’S

• Install humidity controls.  The use of a dehumidifier or humidifier is critical in areas with frequent variations in temperature and humidity.
• Sweep with soft bristle broom or dust mop the floor daily.  Walking on dusty or dirty floors will damage the finish.
• Vacuum the floor regularly using a floor tool and not a beater brush.
• Clean spots from the floor by rubbing with a lightly dampened cloth.  Spray the cleaning product onto the cloth and not the floor. Use a cleaning product acceptable to the manufacturer.  Your dealer, installer or a wood flooring company can assist you with this.
• Purchase a “floor care kit” recommended by the installer or retailer.
• Dry up spills immediately.
• Use felt or similar soft protectors on the legs or feet of furniture.
• Use throw rugs at locations where soil may be tracked onto the floor or at areas subject to regular pivotal traffic such as in front of a kitchen sink, or sofa or chair.
• Area rugs should be moved occasionally so that natural fading of the floor will be evened out.
• Use mats at outside doors to assist keeping dirt and dust outdoors.
• Keep the outdoor walks and porches clean so dirt is not tracked on to the floor.
• Use barrel-type caster wheels or wide glides on furniture.
• Restore lost luster with topcoat dressing.
• Recoat worn surfaces before the bamboo or wood is exposed to avoid re-sanding.
• Have the floor professionally screened and recoated before wear on the finish is too severe.  This may be several years down the road depending on care and use.

DON’TS

• Do not use dust treatment sprays or chemicals.  These products may cause the floor to become slick or dull the surface.
• Do not use a vacuum beater brush, as it will damage the finish.  Use the vacuum floor tool.
• Do not wet mop the floor.  When using a damp mop, spray the cleaning product onto the mop and not by dipping the mop.  Remember that water is the number one cause of damage to a floor.
• Do not allow spills to dry on their own, wipe them up immediately.
• Do not regularly clean with water or water-based products. Clean only the soiled areas as needed.
• Do not use ammonia or ammonia products. Alkaline cleaners may cause strong yellowing and color changes.
• Do not use oil soap or oil soap products.
• Do not wax a urethane floor.
• Do not use rubber, foam-back or plastic mats as they may discolor floor.
• Do not wear spike or stiletto heeled shoes in rooms with wood or bamboo floors.  Such footwear can produce a dynamic load in excess of 1000 PSI, even when worn by a person of small or average build. Wearing a shoe in bad repair that has an exposed nail head can exert a force of 8,000 PSI, which is high enough to pulverize hardened concrete.  You are better off driving your car or walking an elephant on the floor.  The car has a load of 28 to 30 PSI and an elephant 50 to 100 PSI.

Bamboo and Wood Floors – The Effect of Water

The largest percentage of complaints when it comes to both wood and bamboo are moisture related.  The moisture is usually due to a site related condition.  Frequently a moisture problem is caused by conditions such as water under the structure, leaking pipe, excessively wet concrete or too much moisture in a buildings structural components at the time the floor is installed.  Improper maintenance also results in the introduction of excess moisture.

The major component in many cleaning chemicals is water.  Water can have a detrimental effect on both wood and bamboo floors which are hygroscopic materials.  When bamboo and wood are exposed to air their tendency is to either dry or gain in moisture.  The loss or gain in moisture will continue until the material is in equilibrium with the humidity and air temperature.  If too much moisture is gained these materials will swell and if too much moisture is lost they will shrink.  While bamboo is somewhat more stable then wood in this respect, both are affected.

Wood is dimensional stable at its saturation point of 25-30% moisture content.  Below this point it begins to shrink until it reaches 0%.  As it starts to gain in moisture it expands until it reaches the saturation point again.  Once back at the saturation point of 25-30% it again stabilizes.

When wood floors are manufactured it is kiln dried to an average of 6-9% Bamboo floors are usually kiln dried to 8-10%.  Both wood and bamboo when made into a floor are dried significantly below the saturation point.  Once at this point the flooring is expected to stabilize with the environment in which it is installed.  Since the floor still has a natural tendency to gain or loose moisture, it is imperative that the environment be maintained at a suitable level.

The expansion and contraction of floor material is not equal in all directions.  As an example, a solid piece of wood that was over dried to 0% and allowed to increase to its saturation point of 28%, will increase by about 0.1% longitudinally or along the length/grain.  The same piece of wood will increase 2 -8% perpendicular to the annular growth rings (racially or in strip width for flooring that is quarter sawn.  If the floor is plain sawn flooring the increase will be parallel to the trees annular growth rings (tangentially or in strip width.)  With engineered flooring the expansion will be significantly less.  The reason for this is that alternating layers of the laminate are prepared to run in opposite directions.  Since they are not all running in the same direction they have a natural tendency to pull against one another, which helps to maintain stability. While the engineered floor is more stable in this respect, equilibrium moisture content still remains critical.  The moisture content of wood and bamboo that is in storage or installed at a point below its fiber saturation point has a natural tendency to fluctuate.  This fluctuation is a result of changes in the relative humidity and air temperature within the environment in which the material is stored or installed.

An understanding of equilibrium moisture content (EMC) is important.  EMC is the point at which moisture is not being gained or lost.  Table 1 demonstrates the relationship between temperature and humidity and its resultant EMC.  Wood and bamboo will provide excellent performance for many years if properly maintained.  EMC is a major factor in its maintenance. 

Table 1: Moisture content of wood in equilibrium with stated dry-bulb temperature in Fahrenheit and relative humidity. *

Temp.Dry-bulb °F.	Relative Humidity (Percent)
	5	10	15	29	25	30	35	40	45	50	55	60	65		70	75	80	85	90	95	98
30	1.4	2.6	3.7	4.6	5.5	6.3	7.1	7.9	8.7	9.5	10.4	11.3		12.4	13.5	14.9	16.5	18.5	21.	24.3	26.9
40	1.4	2.6	3.7	4.6	5.5	6.3	7.1	7.9	8.7	9.5	10.4	11.3		12.3	13.5	14.9	16.5	18.5	21.	24.3	26.9
50	1.4	2.6	3.6	4.6	5.5	6.3	7.1	7.9	8.7	9.5	10.3	11.2		12.3	13.4	14.8	16.4	18.4	20.9	24.3	26.9
60	1.3	2.5	3.6	4.6	5.4	6.2	7.0	7.8	8.6	9.4	10.2	11.1		12.1	13.3	14.6	16.2	18.2	20.7	24.1	26.8
70	1.3	2.5	3.5	4.5	5.4	6.2	6.9	7.7	8.5	9.2	10.1	11.1		12.0	13.1	14.4	16.0	17.9	20.5	23.9	26.6
80	1.3	2.4	3.5	4.4	5.3	6.1	6.8	7.6	8.3	9.1	9.9	10.8		11.7	12.9	14.2	15.7	17.7	20.2	23.6	26.3
90	1.2	2.3	3.4	4.3	5.1	5.9	6.7	7.4	8.1	8.9	9.7	10.5		11.5	12.6	13.9	15.4	17.3	19.8	23.3	26.0
100	1.2	2.3	3.3	4.2	5.0	5.8	6.5	7.2	7.9	8.7	9.5	10.3		11.2	12.3	13.6	15.1	17.0	19.5	22.9	25.6

*From the Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material, 1999, the Forest Products laboratory, U.S. Department of Agriculture.

The equilibrium moisture content (EMC) is not the same for all locals.  Weather conditions, heat and humidity are not the same in all parts of the country.  Take a look at the Moisture Content Map (table 1).  Take a look at Oregon, the authors state and you will see 8-13 along the coast and 5-7 in the rest of the state.  What this map is telling you is that the normal point of EMC along the coast is 8% in January and 13% in July and inland it is 5% in January and 7% in July.  Now take a look at your own state and you may see and entirely different set of variables.

Moisture and humidity are changing throughout the day - throughout the year.  Additionally there are long-term seasonal changes in relative humidity and temperature.  Since wood and bamboo are hygroscopic material they are also experiencing continuing change throughout the day - throughout the year. 

In a dry climate and during the heating season wood and bamboo will shrink and this is normal.  Expansion is also normal in wetter climates and when exposed to wet conditions.  To maintain the floor at the proper EMC as exhibited in the tables; the environment needs to be carefully monitored. Wood and bamboo perform best in a controlled environment that has a relative humidity between 30-50% and room temperature of 60-80%.  These are the same levels that humans are most comfortable at.  In addition to temperature controls on a furnace, the use of a dehumidifier to remove moisture from the air or humidifier to add moisture to the air will be important in many parts of the country.

As stated earlier, engineered flooring (laminated flooring), due to its multiple layers that are glued together, will shrink and expand less than that of a solid floor. 

With an engineered wood floor the grain of each layer runs at a 90-degree angle to that of the adjacent layer, working against each other to maintain stability. 

Bamboo wants to bend and curl just like planks from a tree.  With an engineered bamboo floor the strips need to be directionally balanced.  On a 3-layer laminate, this is accomplished by arranging the strips so that on top and bottom layers the hard side is facing outward. Some manufacturers will randomly orient strips within the middle layer.  With bamboo, some manufacturers will have all of the layers running in the same direction and this is unacceptable.

While engineered wood products have a built in resistance to shrinkage and expansion and can be installed in areas with a wide ranges in humidity the EMC must still be controlled.

Improperly Specified Carpet

Carpet that is not properly specified will ugly out regardless of what it is installed over.  Most everyone has heard the statement “a good quality cushion will make an inexpensive carpet last longer.”  While there is a certain amount of truth to this statement, the best of cushion can only do so much for a poor quality carpet.  A carpet that is constructed with a loosely plied yarn and sparse in construction might do fine in a spare bedroom but it is not designed for the traffic of an active family.

Inexpensive plush is not going to hold up on stairs regardless of how good the cushion is.  By the same token, the finest piece of carpet is not going to hold up when installed over a cushion of improper thickness or density.

How Cushion - Carpet Pad Contributes to Ugly Out

Installing New Carpet over Old Cushion - Carpet Pad

It is common for an inspector to investigate an installation and find poor performing carpet installed over the old cushion.  While this old cushion may have looked pretty good to the installer or salesperson that talked them out of a new one, it has often lost much of its resilience. Was the salesman so unskilled that he or she was unable to explain the need for a proper cushion?  Was the installer just too lazy to take up and install a new cushion?  While the knowledgeable inspector might not know the motive for installing a new carpet over and old cushion, they certainly can tell when the cushion is bad.  When a cushion is bad they will report that fact in their findings.  A manufacturer may reduce coverage or refuse to warrant a carpet that is installed over an old pad.

Installing Carpet over Improperly Specified New Cushion

Just as with carpet installed over an old cushion, a carpet installed over a new improperly specified cushion will exhibit premature wear.  The Carpet and Rug Institute, Carpet Cushion Council, FHA, and most carpet manufacturers have recommended standards for carpet cushion.  Every individual that is selling carpet needs to know and follow these standards.  Just as with used cushion a manufacturer may reduce coverage or refuse to warrant a carpet that is installed over a cushion that does not meet their standards.  The Installer also needs to be aware of cushion standards for they are often blamed for restretching problems that are actually due to improperly specified carpet cushion.

The Ugly Out of Carpet

Every person in the floor covering industry and especially those that sell, install, inspect and service carpet need to understand the broad variety of complaints that they will face at any given time.  These same people need to understand that appearance and wear are not synonymous and in fact the two frequently used words are as different as apples and oranges.  Most consumers and far too many “experts” in the industry do not understand or refuse to understand the difference between appearance and wear.  As you read articles on this website the author is hoping that this difference will start to be understood. There is a saying in the carpet industry that has been around at least as long as nylon carpets.  “Carpet does not wear out it uglies out”.  Unfortunately, a knowledgeable inspector such as those from my own compant The Weinheimer Group LLC, often finds that a carpet has uglied out due to improper cushion selection, inappropriate maintenance or consumer ignorance or neglect.  When these types of problems are found it usually results in a declined claim a consumer and sometimes salesperson that feels they have been taken for a ride.  Educating the consumer at the time of purchase can usually prevent these problems.

Question for Floor Covering Dealers and Manufacturers

If you are a manufacturer, distributor, dealer, designer or contractor selling carpet, laminate, hardwood, vinyl, ceramic tile, stone, linoleum, cork or any other flooring or floor-covering product you need to ask yourself: “Do the products I recommend or sell bite me?” How important is it to you to know that you have recommended, specified or sold a product to the client that you would install in your own home, office or showroom under similar circumstances?

Hundreds of millions of dollars are spent each year by contractors, retailers and manufacturers to replace carpet.  A countless number of these replacements are being made not because the flooring is covered by a warranty but because the consumer is screaming loudly.  With many of these replacements the floor covering is performing, as it should for its use, construction and care. 

As an example a lot of base grade carpet, laminate, resilient and hardwood is being produced. Retailers are gobbling it up with many representing it as a great bargain.  Some of these flooring products look great the wear layer on the laminate, resilient or hardwood is paper-thin and the carpet has puffed-up yarn. The inexperienced consumer and “professional” may find it difficult to tell the difference.  Unfortunately many under trained or over anxious sales people also appear blind to the obvious.  They are selling cheap flooring products that looks good on the sample, in the roll or stacked on the sales or warehouse floor.

Unfortunately many of these “bargain” products have a good chance at winding up as a future problem.  You probably wonder why they make flooring that will not perform.  The answer is simple, as long as you have a market for something it will be made.

Replacements are expensive for both the manufacturer and the retailer, many of whom could stand to have new floor in their own home but are always broke because they are getting bit by to many claims.  The manufacturer is out the flooring and usually the dealer is out the labor and it’s a toss up as to who will be out the freight.  Even if the manufacturer was to pay for everything the dealer still looses due to all the extra time spent handling the claim and loss in consumer confidence. That time could have been spent selling a better floor covering product to begin with.

As a child my dad who was in the floor covering business would remind me that saving one dollar was like making two.  He also liked to say, “Price is soon forgotten but quality still remains”. Unfortunately I did not listen as well as I should and learned my lesson the hard way by making many, many mistakes.  Yes, from time to time I was guilty of selling junk that would later come back and bite me.  I also sold many fine products that I experienced few problems with.  Over the past forty years, many things have changed, and today saving one dollar is more like making five.  So remember that when you over sell that base grade product for an area where it is not going to perform (which is just about everywhere), you are probably biting yourself instead of making money.

Carpet Spot Removal Procedures

Procedures

1. Urgency is important with spot cleaning. The earlier that you get to it the better it will usually come off. Most carpet is stain-resistant but no carpet is stain-proof.

2. With a putty knife or the edge of other dull knife, scrape off as much of the foreign matter as you can.

3. Never scrub a carpet as this will distort and fray the pile. Absorb as much liquid as you can by blotting before adding any new liquid.

4. If you haven’t already done so, pretest your cleaning solution on a scrap of the carpet or in an inconspicuous area. Some products can damage carpet dye or cause yellowing.

5. Apply your spot-cleaning chemical to an absorbent towel. Never poor the chemical directly onto the carpet. Excess cleaner leaves a residue to attract soil. Some spotters in excess will damage the latex in the back of a carpet.

6. Work the spotter from the outside of the spot toward the center to keep the spot from growing.

Spot Removal Solutions

1. Detergent solution: To 1 cup of warm water add only 3 drops of dish washing liquid. Do not use laundry detergent or powdered dish washing detergent as these may damage the carpet. Do not add more then 3 drops of the liquid detergent, as excess will leave a residue that attracts soil.

2. Acetic acid solution: One half cup of white vinegar to one cup of water.

3. Alkaline solution: Two tablespoons of household ammonia to one cup of water.

4. Alcohol: Isopropyl or grain.

5. Dry cleaning solvent: Used for removing oily spots. Different brands are available for removing spots on clothing.

6. Rinse: Clear water

Removal Procedures Common Spills

Catsup: Scrape, blot, detergent solution, rinse, blot.

Coffee, Tea, Soft Drink: Blot, detergent solution, acetic acid solution, rinse, blot.

Feces: Scrape, detergent solution, ammonia solution, acetic acid, rinse, blot.

Ink: Blot, alcohol, blot, dry cleaning solvent, blot.

Lipstick: Dry cleaning solvent, blot.

Milk: Blot, detergent solution, rinse, blot.

Oil, Grease and Tar: Scrape solids, dry cleaning solvent, detergent solution, rinse, blot.

Paint, oil base: Scrape, dry solvent, detergent solution, rinse, blot.

Paint, water base: Scrape, detergent solution, rinse, blot.

Urine, fresh: Blot, detergent solution, rinse, blot.

Urine, dry: Detergent solution, ammonia solution, blot, acetic acid solution, rinse, blot.

Yellow areas dry and unknown: Rinse, acetic acid solution, blot.

Notice: All spots may not come out. All products should be protested on an inconspicuous area or remnant.

Routine Resilient Floor Maintenance a Winning Proposition!

Neglecting a floor saves time for a very short period, which is followed by a game called Catch-up. Read more

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