Removing Efflorescence from Grout

• Give the installation plenty of time to dry and the concrete to cure. Remove the white powder during this drying time by brushing.

• When new white powder stops developing clean the grout with a tile and grout cleaner to remove the stains.

• If necessary clean with diluted sulfuric or phosphoric acid. (Sulfuric is normally the preferred acid.) Dilution ratio a minimum of 5:1 to 7:1.

• Wet the surface prior to applying the acid.

• After applying the acid, wash the tile thoroughly to remove the acid residue.

• Do not allow the acid to get on anything including carpet and other floor covering products as it can cause severe damage.

When working with chemicals always follow the manufacturer recommendations and good safety practices. Do not allow the acid to come into contact with your skin, eyes or clothing.

Removing Stains from Stone

• Coffee: glycerin, ammonia, enzyme cleaners

• Copper/bronze: ammonium chloride & talc

• Ink: ammonia, sodium perborate, solvents

• Iron: Phosphoric acid, sodium citrate, glycerin

• Linseed oil: hydrogen peroxide, ammonia, tri-sodium phosphate, sodium perborate

• Oil: acetone, amyl acetate, aromatic solvents

• Soot: tri-sodium phosphate, chlorinated lime

• Tobacco: sodium perborate, soap, sodium carbonate

• Urine: sodium carbonate, sodium perborate

• Wood: glycerin, tri-sodium phosphate, enzyme cleaners

Notes: You will find that removing stains from stone will often require some experimentation. The above list consists of tips that have worked for others but no guarantees are offered. It is recommended that when you know what a stain is, call your dealer for advice before attempting its removal.

Selecting Cleaning Chemicals for Stone

Natural soaps will help to provide sealing and/or dressing function for stone floors. The best soaps are vegetable based. Highly recommended are specialty soaps that have been formulated for use on most natural stone floors and other stone surfaces.

Detergents are synthetic surface-active agents (surfactants). They are effective at picking up soils and emulsifying grease and oil. These wetting agents are very effective cleaners. When selecting a detergent for stone cleaning its selection needs to be carefully evaluated for compatibility with the stone.

Acids are used for removing grout haze, mineral deposits and rust. Care must be taken as acidic type chemicals will attack lime and cement. Caution must be taken with acids and acidic pH products as they attack the polish on marbles and limestone. Phosphoric acid, citric acid and sulfamic acid is preferred over muratic, sulfuric and hydrofluoric acids in most situations for both safety and control issues.a

Abrasives should only be used on non-polished surfaces. Abrasives can be used in conjunction with detergents or soaps for scouring and removing thin layers from the tile or stone surface.

Bleaches are typically oxidizing agents (generate oxygen) and are helpful in stain removal. Non-hazardous enzyme types are available.

Maintaining Glazed Tile

While glazed tiles have good stain resistance spills of any type should always be wiped up immediately.

• Remove soil with a broom, non-oily dust mop or vacuum on a daily basis. Soil can abrade a floor as badly as taking sandpaper to it. When selecting a broom find one with a bristle that matches the floor surface. A soft broom or brush is recommended for smooth surfaces. A medium-soft bristle is ideal for textured surfaces.

• Vacuum: A vacuum cleaner works better than a broom on textured surfaces. On large floor areas a vacuum is almost always quicker than sweeping.

• Damp mop for routine maintenance, using a mop or damp cloth. Damp mopping will pick up microscopic abrasive soils and potential staining agents. Damp mopping on a regular basis is recommended for most smooth surfaces. All surfaces should be swept of vacuumed before mopping.

• Remove stubborn debris by scrapping with a putty knife.

• Wash regularly: The most frequent problems encountered with tile and stone floors are related to ineffective or lack of maintenance. For most surfaces clean with an approved tile or stone cleaning product or use clear water and a mild non-sudsy detergent.

• Thoroughly rinse with clear warm water and wipe the floor dry. Dirty mop water residue is a frequent problem and a major cause of complaint. A two-bucket rinse method will help to prevent a floor from graying out due to soil residues. Allow tile to dry before placing back into use.

Carpet and Rug Industry Statistics 1950 - 2005

The major fiber used in carpet is nylon, which represents nearly 2/3 of the market. Polypropylene, polyester, wool, and some acrylic and cotton fiber are also used to produce carpet.

• In 1950 industry shipments were 97 million square yards (8.730 billion square feet). By 1998 the figure had increased to 16.497 billion square feet) or $10.85 billion at mill level. In the year 2005 the industry reported a modest but steady increase of 2.057 billion square yards (18.5 billion square feet) or $13.9 billion at the mill level.
• Market Share 1998 and 2005

• Nylon 59.4% / 62.3%
• Olefin 33.4% / 31.5%
• Polyester 6.8% / 5.8%
• Wool .4% / .4%

RBI International Carpet Consultants semiannual “comprehensive resource of carpet styles,” This semi annual report list new introductions. (1998)

• Nylon 60% of residential and 74% of commercial introductions.

• Olefin 21% of all new styles.

• Olefin/nylon blends 8% of all new styles.

• 52% of residential carpets cut pile

• 50% on new residential is solid colors.

• Majority of new commercial styles is loop pile.

• 33% of new commercial have definite patterns

• 26% of new commercial have random multi-color patterns.

• 18% of new commercial is heather or tweed

Carpet and Rug Institute

Comparison of Carpet Cleaning Systems

With all cleaning methods a wall to wall carpet needs to be thoroughly vacuumed prior to cleaning to remove any heavy soil such as silicates (the primary constituent of soil), without this pre-vacuuming, dirt and sand are forced to the backing of the carpet.

Absorbent Powder / Dry Extraction CleaningAn absorbent granular material that has been incorporated into a mixture of detergent, solvent and water is brushed into the carpet pile with a machine incorporating a double cylindrical brush. Once the material has dried the carpet is vacuumed to remove the powder and the soil that it has captured. The best use for the absorbent powder cleaning method is the commercial installation where they clean regularly and require quick drying.

Bonnet/Spin Pad

This method in appearance is similar to the rotary shampoo method. The machine used is essentially the same. A detergent is usually sprayed onto the carpet. A rotating absorbent pad spins and agitates the carpet fibers as the soil is collected into the pad. This is not a preferred method for cut pile carpet for like the rotary shampoo method it can cause untwisting of the face pile. While this method is reasonably quick drying it must be done more often as it is more of a surface cleaning. The best use for cylindrical foam cleaning is the commercial installation where they clean regularly and require quick drying.

Cylindrical Foam Shampoo

The cylindrical foam method uses a machine with an air compressor that whips the shampoo solution into heavy foam. The foam is brushed into the carpet with a cylindrical brush. Once the carpet has dried it is vacuumed to remove the shampoo and the particles that have theoretically bonded to it. Not all of the shampoo and soil is actually captured but instead much of it is forced deeper into the pile. While this method is reasonably quick drying it must be done more often as it is more of a surface cleaning. The best use for cylindrical foam cleaning is the commercial installation where they clean regularly and require quick drying.

Rotary Shampoo

The Rotary shampoo method uses chemicals similar to those used with cylindrical foam. The rotary floor machine usually has an attached solution tank for the shampoo solution. The diluted solution is fed through a tub to a “shower-feed” where it is applied to the carpet. While the shampoo is being applied a round brush on the machine is scrubbing the carpet. This shampoo method uses more moisture than the cylindrical brush method. The rotary shampoo method is not recommended for use on cut pile carpet as it can cause untwisting of the face pile.

Steam Cleaning or Hot Water Extraction

With this method a non-foaming detergent is injected into the carpet fibers and is almost simultaneously vacuumed out of the carpet taking the dirt and soil with it. The extraction method when performed a skilled technician and quality chemicals will leave very residue to attract to soil. In the hands of an unskilled person the carpet can be over-wet.

Selecting a Carpet Cleaning Company

Beware of companies that solicit business over the telephone, or offer cheap prices through mailers, newspaper and other media.

Check references by asking friends who they have used and been happy with.

Ask the store you bought the carpet from or another local retailer for names of reliable cleaning companies.

Call the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification for names of certified companies in your area. That number for the computerized referral directory is (800) 835-4624. or IICRC on line.

Regardless if the company is recommended or certified it is always a good idea to check references from more than one source.

Have a representative of the cleaning firm visit your home and inspect the carpet for cleaning. Insist on a written estimate in advance of the job. Have the representative list the steps they are going to take and services that are include so that you can compare estimates. If large pieces of furniture such as beds, dressers, hutches and entertainment systems are to be moved, have it listed on the estimate.

Warning! Many cleaning companies quote a low price in the newspaper or on the phone. When they arrive at the house they add on a variety of services, many of which should have been included to begin with. E.g., spot removal, preconditioning, deep cleaning, triple processes, pile setting, vacuuming, sanitizing, etc. They charge and additional fee for each of the additional services and in most cases you are paying more for a poor job than you would have paid to the quality company who appeared more expensive in the beginning.

Carpet Maintenance: Protect Your Investment

A carpet will not look good unless it is properly maintained. Good maintenance is not difficult but will require a small amount of effort on your part.

Vacuum deeply and frequently at least once or twice a week. As floor covering inspectors we go into homes where people often claim to vacuum several times per week and even more often and perhaps they do. Upon inspection we find many of these carpets full of fiber-damaging abrasive soil that has not been vacuumed out. A person that is vacuuming frequently and not getting the soil out is not vacuuming properly or is using an inefficient vacuum. Thorough vacuuming requires two or three, slow, methodical passes of the vacuum head to remove that embedded soil. In the higher traffic areas and in areas such as an entrance or next to a hard surface floor covering such ceramic, laminate or vinyl, take extra passes. A once-a-week thorough vacuuming such as this will do more good than the daily quick over. CRI Vacuum Cleaner Testing Program.

Frequent cleaning is a must. The Carpet and Rug Institute recommends deep cleaning every 12 to 18 months. Various carpet and fiber manufacturers have minimum recommendations of their own and you must be familiar with these for the carpet that you purchase. A carpet with an active family and pets will usually require more frequent cleaning than one with an adult couple and no pets. Remember that the longer a dirt or stain is there the harder it can be to get out.

If you have a spot that will not come out, call the Carpet and Rug Institutes toll-free information line for assistance. The CRI can be reached at 1-800-882-8846 or CRI on line

Carpet and Rug Institute, cleaning, CRI, fiber damage, spot cleaning, vacuum, vacuuming carpet, wear

Carpet Filtration Soiling

By Terry Weinheimer

Often a dealer will receive a call from a consumer that they sold carpet to less than a year or two ago.  The caller is terribly upset because the expensive new carpet is changing from its light color to a dark color along the walls at the edge of the steps on the stairs and under some of the doors. The dealer goes out and looks at the carpet and sure enough it is getting dark around the perimeter of the room.  Usually there is what looks like dark bands along some walls. Sometimes there will also be what appears as claw marks, small round dark circular areas and some larger dark circular areas.  Thinking that something indeed is wrong with the carpet they will often contact a company like The Weinheimer Group certified floor covering inspectors.

At the job-site the inspector lifts the edge of the carpet along a darkened area. The edge he is lifting is tucked between the tackless strip and the wall so it is protected from exposure.  When the carpet is up he observes that its edge has become anywhere from light gray to black.  While the carpet is up the inspector also notes that along the dark edge either the subfloor or wall or both have gaps that allow air to pass through. 

The inspector moves on to the stairs where the carpet is turning dark along the edges. Lifting the carpet at a darkened edge he observes a gap between the step and the wall.

Checking the interior doors of a room it is noted that under some of them the carpet is very dark. When the door is opened the dark area is seen as almost a perfect band.

The inspector moves on to the window areas and observes that the carpet has become dark under the floor length draperies and the dark areas oddly enough are in the same shape as the pleats.  In another room the inspector notices that the carpet has turned dark under the vertical blinds that go almost directly to the floor and in this area the marks are in the shape of the blind slats.

After making the above observations, the inspector determines that what we are dealing with is filtration soiling. 

What is filtration soiling?

Filtration soiling occurs when the carpet performing as a filter, absorbs oily atmospheric pollutants out of the air. Carpet fiber makes a great filter and this is an advantage for holding pollutants that can be vacuumed out but unfortunately the oily type soil holds on to the carpet fiber like a magnet.

Why does filtration soiling occur? 

The air of most building’s have many atmospheric pollutants, much of these contaminants are composed of carbon and other non-soluble materials, such as smoke, cooking oils, gas fumes and dust.  Some of the pollutants are created within the structure and others come from outside sources such as industry, vehicles, machinery, and natural sources.  These contaminants flow over, under and through the carpet.  They come up through open areas between the floor and the cell plate, under the baseboards or at the space between edge of the stairs and the wall.  Contaminants in the air also pass under the draperies and doors and down walls, drapes, etc.  Carpet being the great filter that it is, absorbs these oily soil contaminants and thus the fibers become dark, just as the filter in a furnace becomes dark over time if it is not regularly cleaned or replaced.

Why are small, dark round or claw -like areas sometimes seen on the carpet?

When air flows under the carpet through cracks in a concrete floor or openings in the wood floor. It escapes by passing up through the back of the carpet at the small holes that develop during installation from the sharp pins on the power stretcher or knee kicker head. These holes are not due to installation error but a necessary result of stretching the carpet.  As the contaminants pass through these holes this results in the round dark spots, or sometimes claw-like areas on the surface of the pile near the perimeter of the room.

Why does filtration soiling affect light colored carpet?

In actuality it affects any color of carpet.  Since filtration soil is dark it is easiest to see on a light colored carpet.

What type of structures is affected?

Filtration soiling can occur in almost any type of structure.  Some of the more common occurrences are in rooms without return air vents where the air and its contaminants must escape someplace and it is often under a door.  Frequent examples of these are:

• Rooms that have a HVAC supply vent but no return.
• Rooms with electric wall or ceiling heat.
• Rooms heated with wood or pellet stoves.

The well-sealed house or other structure is an example we have seen more and more of over the past several years.  This increase has come about with the government mandated increased requirements as it pertains to insulation.  In these well-sealed structures, the return air must come from somewhere, or a vacuum is formed by the suction of the return air resulting in the filtration of the contaminants.

Is filtration soiling a construction-related problem?

Filtration soiling does not occur with every structure.  While the type of structure may play a key roll as to where it is going to occur, it would not be fair to state that it is strictly a construction-related problem. Filtration soiling is a natural condition that occurs when return air is restricted by effective insulation and an ineffective return air supply.

How do you remove filtration soil?

Filtration soil is difficult to remove and if it is very dark, the most you can generally hope for is an improvement in appearance. When dealing with this dark, oily discoloration’s you are challenged with a blend of many pollutants, of varying particle sizes.

Cleaning of filtration marks is not a one step process.  The cleaning will require a solvent to attack the oily substance, detergent to attack soil, a lot of agitation, plenty of dwell time for the chemicals to work and a thorough very-hot water extraction. This type of cleaning is not done standing up with a cleaning wand.  You will be working face to face with the carpet if you expect any type of cleaning results.

• First vacuum the area thoroughly with a crevice tool or hose cuff to remove the dry soil. The more thorough the vacuuming now the better your later results will be.
• After vacuuming, mix a high-pH pre-spray containing a built-in solvent as part of the ingredient and spray the dark area. (The pre-spray may work better if it is hot.)
• When you apply the pre-spray, do not over-wet, as you only want to wet about the top one-third of the yarn.
• Once you have sprayed the area use a tamping brush (type of spotting brush) to tamp in the solvents. The tamping will move the pre-spray further down the tuft length without over-wetting the fiber shaft along with adding needed agitation to help break the soil loose. The job of the solvent in the pre-spray is to dissolve and oxidizes the oily soil that it encapsulates.
• With carpet shampoo, scrub the area and wait about twenty minutes (dwell time) before proceeding.
• Thoroughly extract the area with very hot water. Extract thoroughly to reduce the amount of wicking (soil moving back to the surface as wet seeks dry). After all of this the area will likely still be discolored but look much better.

How do I prevent filtration soiling?

Cleaning the filtration soiling will help only temporarily if something is not done to prevent it from happening again. An alternate source of fresh air for the return air must be

Found. While some experts claim that one way to prevent or reduce filtration soiling is to remove part of the insulation or weather stripping, I do not consider this a practical solution. Another way to prevent or reduce filtration soiling is to leave a window cracked so that return air will be drawn through the window instead of from under the base plate or through the wall. Since every structure is different, it is recommended that a heating and air-conditioning expert be contacted for their recommendation.

For further information regarding filtration soil or other floor-covering problem, please feel free to contact either Terry or Kevin Weinheimer at “The Weinheimer Group LLC“.

Carpet Fiber Identification Chart

 Carpet Fiber Identification and Characteristic Charts

Fiber	Flame Color & smoke	Ash	Special Note	Odor
Nylon	Blue base and orange tipNo Smoke, white puff	Hard, rounded and bead-like in gray-brown to black		Celery or Sealing Wax
Polypropylene / Olefin	Blue base and orange tipNo smoke	Hard, rounded and bead-like in light gray to brown	Floats in water	Asphalt or burning paraffin
Polyester	Orange flameSputters black smoke	Round, hard & shiny black	Dense Black Smoke	Sweet over-ripe fruit
Acrylic	White-Orange sputterBlack smoke	Black ash, irregular hard crust will crush		Harsh, acrid charred meat
Wool	OrangeSputters, no smoke	Irregular, black, crumbles to fine powder	Self extinguishes	Burning hair
Silk	OrangeBurns		Self extinguishes	Burning feathers
Cotton	Yellow-orange, irregular, glowing ember, no smoke	Gray fluffy ash crumbles to fine powder	Burns evenly and slowcontinues to smolder	Burning Paper

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