Small gaps, cracks, dents and holes can occur in your prefinished wood flooring. These gaps are really not hard to fill and most anyone can do it with a bit of Wood Putty. This putty will never fully harden and is available in colors to match just about any floor from a maple or white oak to a Brazilian cherry, black walnut or just about anything in between. When you are unable to find a color of Wood Putty that matches your floor you can actually take a couple of colors and with your fingers blend them together before use and come up with a pretty good match. Remember that when finished you will be viewing the job standing and not from your hands and knees so the fill should be pretty hard to see.
Wood Putty can be purchased at your local paint store or at a big box store like Home Depot or Lowes. Usually the best selection will be at a larger paint store. To apply the Wood Putty get a blob and with your finger rub it into the crack. Using a paper towel rub the area quickly and vigorously to remove the excess putty. If you selected the right color of putty in the first place you should be pleased with the finished appearance.
For an even more finished appearance, using a rag with a bit of natural color wood stain or sealer, carefully wipe it across the putty in a single swipe. You now have a bit of sheen on the putty so that it will better match a higher sheen on the flooring.
The Difference between Wood Putty and Wood Filler
On prefinished flooring where you want to fill holes, cracks and splits but not refinish the floor wood putty is a better choice than wood filler. Wood filler is a wetter, more fluid product than wood putty. Wood Putty has more of the consistency of damp clay and while it will harden some it does not fully dry. The putty should not come out with normal foot traffic and since it does not fully dry wood putty holds well with the normal expansion and contraction of your flooring. For a new site finished floor, wood filler is used as it is sandable and like wood it will take a stain and for this reason it is used to fill gaps and cracks prior to applying the finish to a floor.
As with the finishing of all types of products, a variety of problems can occur during the finishing of wood floors. With both factory applied finishes and site applied finishes the problem may be with the finish or a totally different cause. Here we discuss trouble shooting wood finish problems including some of the more common causes of finish problems. Additionally we offer some tips for solving them. Both manufacturing and site related conditions are discussed. Read more
Whether you have just built a new home, or are considering a change to your current flooring, perhaps you are intrigued by the addition of wood. There is nothing more classic than hardwood floors. It is found in the most expensive of homes and lends a certain charm to every room. Real wood flooring, while beautiful, is also expensive. It may or may not be the right choice for you. This article will explore the terms laminate and wood flooring and why you should be familiar with their individual meanings.
Laminate flooring is a material that is manufactured to give the appearance of real wood without the hefty price tag. The most economical choice for homeowners on a budget, laminate flooring is featured in both natural and synthetic materials that are accompanied by a number of benefits. Laminate flooring is generally water resistant though some are more easily damaged by water than others. There are many brands of laminate flooring and most quality products offer generous warranty. Being prone to chipping and the inability to be repaired are among the disadvantages of laminate flooring. Generally if laminate flooring becomes damaged then the entire board must be replaced.
Real wood flooring, on the other hand, uses authentic wood to act as the home’s floor. Genuine hardwood floors are much more expensive than their laminate competitors, but offer several advantages if you can afford their higher price tag. Solid wood flooring, for example, offers the ability to sand the material numerous times. This allows for the easy removal and repair of surface problems or cosmetic imperfections. Wood flooring can be repaired multiple times without the need for replacement. At the same time, wood flooring is very susceptible to cracks and may easily react to the environment. If damp, wood tends to swell and may even suffer from rotting if not properly treated. Wood flooring can be difficult to keep in good condition, but there are products to help maintain its beauty. These types of wood flooring restoration products can easily be found online or at a local home improvement center.
The decision to purchase either laminate or authentic wood floors ultimately comes down to a simple case of economics. Solid wood floors can add significant value to a home but comes at an initially higher cost. Laminate flooring, on the other hand, gives you the appearance of authentic wood flooring at a smaller price. While laminate may not increase the value of a house in the same way as a real wood floor does, laminate flooring still lends style at a price that may be more affordable. For me the choice would be real wood even though it may stretch the budget. The choice is yours.
Considering a new hardwood floor? Here are some answers to frequently asked hardwood questions that have been provided to us by the American Hardwood Information Center.
Does sunlight lighten or darken a floor’s color? Does it depend on the species, the stain or the finish?
The ultraviolet rays that can burn and age our skin will affect any organic material, including wood. That’s why the finest art collections are kept in rooms without windows. Prolonged exposure to sunlight will change the color of virtually any wood floor, regardless of the stain or finish. Some woods lighten when exposed to sunlight. Others, like cherry and oak, tend to darken. The newest water-based urethane finishes seem to slow color changes more effectively than oil-based urethane finishes, which tend to turn the brownish-yellow color of amber. Some finishes feature sunscreens to help block the penetration of ultraviolet rays, extending the time it will take the wood to change.
If you’re especially concerned about your floor changing color, consider installing curtains or blinds that will limit exposure to sunlight. Windows also can be fitted with thin films of plastic that block ultraviolet rays. This type of screen — similar to those on used on some car windows — will protect your floor, furniture, drapes, upholstery and artwork from sunlight.
Is a hardwood floor a good choice for someone with allergies or asthma?
You bet. Allergists often recommend bare floors, which reduce the chance for animal dander, dust, pollen or molds to collect. Respiratory experts say as much as one-fifth of the U.S. population suffers breathing difficulties caused by allergies and asthma, often triggered by microscopic dust mites that colonize bedding, curtains and carpets. Bedding and curtains can be laundered, but because frequent vacuuming is ineffective against dust mites in floor coverings, many immunologists and allergists suggest bringing hardwood floors out into the open.
If I have a urethane finish on my hardwood floor, can I use oil-based paint for stencils?
You can, but it may not be the best choice. Many professionals avoid working with oil-based paints because they are harder to clean up and take longer to dry. With water-based paints, smudges and spills can be wiped away easily with a damp cloth. Water-based paint can be applied over oil-or water-based urethane finishes. For best results with opaque paints, consider first applying a white primer. Let the paint dry thoroughly before applying at least two protective top coats that are the same type of urethane as the base coats. Oil-based paints that are just the slightest bit wet will smear when you apply an oil-based urethane topcoat. If you aren’t sure whether your paint and urethanes are compatible, contact the manufacturers of your materials. Also, always test for compatibility by applying a little paint and finish on an extra board or in an inconspicuous spot such as a closet corner.
Are steam cleaners an effective way to keep wood floors clean?
Some models are designed for use on hardwood floors. Others are not. Check with the manufacturer to find out if your cleaner is appropriate for use on your wood floor. Remember that water is wood’s No. 1 enemy. If the finish is worn or scratched, steam could seep into your wood floors, eventually causing damage. Keep in mind that experts say the best way to clean a wood floor is to wipe up any spills immediately with a soft, dry cloth. Sweep floors regularly with a broom, dust mop or canister vacuum with special hardwood floor attachments. Do not use a vacuum with beater bars. They can cause dent your floor’s finish.
If I buy a home with hardwood floors, how can I tell if they have a wax or urethane finish?
Urethane is one of the most popular finishes in use today. An easy way to determine if your floor has this type of finish is to apply a small amount of paint remover to the floor surface. If the finish bubbles up, it is most likely a urethane. You can also try scraping up a bit of the finish with a sharp blade (also in an area hidden from view.) If you can scrape up a clear material, the finish is likely urethane.
The finish is probably wax if you can feel the wood grain when you run your hand over the floor surface. Another test is to select an inconspicuous area and try to smudge the floor surface with a fingertip, or scrape the surface with a fingernail or sharp instrument. If the floor smudges, but no clear material is scraped up, the finish is probably wax.
If you’re not certain after trying these tests, contact a reputable floor refinisher. Professionals with years of experience easily can determine a floor’s finish.
What are mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil? How about rottenstone and pumice?
–Mineral spirits are used to thin or clean up oil-based paints, stains and finishes. They also can be used to remove wax buildup on furniture and floors. Boiled linseed oil is a yellowish drying oil that serves as a lubricant. (Do not boil linseed oil: it has already been boiled.) Both of these materials can be found in the paint section at Lowe’s, Home Depot and other home centers.
Rottenstone is a fine, abrasive limestone powder. Pumice is an abrasive (harder than rottenstone) derived from volcanic glass. Either one of these abrasives can be mixed with linseed oil and rubbed on furniture to remove stains and marks caused by moisture or heat. Woodworking suppliers sell these products in stores and on the Internet. Some paint and hardware stores also carry them.
For more free information about hardwood floors, furniture, moulding or cabinets, visit the Hardwood Information Center.
Understanding and Minimizing Veneer Checking on Furniture Panels
A commonly occurring and costly problem in wood furniture manufacturing is the development of small cracks in the furniture’s finish called veneer checks. Veneer checks usually appear as uniformly spaced hairline cracks in the finish or, in severe cases, cracks with accompanying ridges on the wood surface which actually can be detected by touch. In any case, veneer checks always run parallel with the grain of the wood (Figure 1), a characteristic that can be used to distinguish veneer checks from other defects. Random orientation of cracks in the finish (not parallel to the wood grain) generally indicates non-wood-related causes.
Figure 1. Veneer checks appear as small, uniformly spaced, cracks in the finish which run parallel with the grain direction of the wood.
Veneer checks are formed when stress failures occur in the face veneer, caused by differential shrinkage or swelling between the face veneer and the panel substrate to which it is applied. As the relative humidity of the environment (in which a panel is used) changes, so does the moisture content of the panel. With wood, changes in moisture content mean shrinkage and swelling. Unfortunately, when a veneered panel shrinks or swells, the veneer does not “move” at the same rate as the substrate. This creates considerable stresses within the panel which, if great enough, result in wood failure. Failure will occur at the weakest part of the wood which is generally over deep lathe checks, large pores, or other weakened areas on the face veneer. Such failures in the face veneer then create stress concentrations in the finish which result in the visible cracks we call veneer checks (Figure 2).
Figure 2. Veneer checks are the result of wood failure in the face veneer caused by stresses created from shrinking and swelling of the wood. These failures create stress concentrations in the finish which result in cracks in the finish.
There are many factors which contribute to the formation and severity of veneer checks. For example, veneer checking can result from improper manufacturing practices, poor warehousing conditions, or harsh environments in the consumers’ homes. It is usually very difficult, if not impossible, to determine the exact cause of checking for any given incident. However, experience and research have taught us some of the most common and severe influences of veneer checking. These will be discussed below.
The Veneer
The quality, species, and cut of the face veneer all influence the tendency for veneer checking to occur. Tight-cut veneer (veneer with shallow lathe checks or knife marks), has been shown to perform better than loose-cut veneer (deep lathe checks). Likewise, species of wood with fine pores check less than wood with large pores. This is because deep lathe checks and large pores create weak spots on the face veneer which provide less resistance to failure when the face veneer is under stress (Figure 2).
Veneer with straight grain (radial face) has been shown to check less than veneer with a cathedral grain (tangential face). This is because shrinkage in wood is much greater tangentially than radially. Greater shrinkage creates greater stresses and thus, a higher chance of wood failure in the face veneer.
Moisture Content
The most critical factor in preventing veneer checks is control of moisture content, not only of the panel components, but of the finished product as well. Checking only occurs when there is shrinking or swelling of the wood. Likewise, the severity of checking is related to the degree of shrinking or swelling. By controlling the shrinking and swelling of the wood (i.e., controlling the moisture content), the propensity of checking is reduced.
Before panel assembly, the face veneer and substrate should be dried to a moisture content appropriate for the conditions in which the final product will be used (6-8% is most common). It is imperative that the veneer and substrate be at the appropriate moisture content at the time of pressing. The phenomenon of veneer checking is exaggerated when the face veneer and substrate possess different moisture contents (not dried for the same final atmospheric conditions) at the time of panel pressing (or more specifically, at the time of bond formation of the glue line). In such a case, the dimensional change of the face veneer relative to the substrate is more severe, creating greater stresses, and thus, increased checking.
Manufacturers attempting to carefully control moisture content often overlook certain practices which adversely alter the moisture content of once properly dried panel components. For instance, veneer and panels are often stored in areas with no environmental control. In uncontrolled conditions, wood changes moisture content at a surprising rate. Even in environmentally controlled plants, certain areas may be inadequate for wood storage. For example, veneer stored next to hot presses may lose moisture driven off by the radiating heat. The manufacturer often does not realize that moisture content has changed and assembles the panel, only to have problems later. The solution is to store wood components in an environmentally controlled atmosphere, and check moisture content before panel assembly.
Another consideration often overlooked by manufacturers is the effect of the glue on veneer moisture content. If a high water content adhesive is applied to the veneer, especially with a long assembly time, the veneer can pick up considerable moisture before pressing. Avoiding high water content adhesives, thick spreads, and long assembly times will reduce the likelihood of veneer checks. Manufacturers should consult with their adhesive suppliers, however, before making such alterations.
Once panels have been assembled, it is important that they be conditioned in an environmentally controlled area to allow for the temperature and moisture balances to reach equilibrium. Two days is a common minimum conditioning time.
Finally, the finished product must be stored in an environmentally controlled area. Too often, properly manufactured furniture is stored in a warehouse with no environmental control. Some believe that the finish protects the furniture from moisture changes, so storage conditions are not important. This is not true. Although the finish helps to slow moisture movement, it does not prevent it. Furniture stored in adverse environments will surely check. Plastic wrap around the finished product prior to warehousing will help prevent moisture from damaging the furniture. Manufactures should realize that veneer checks may also occur if the final product is used by the consumer in a different or harsh environment, even if checks were not visible when the furniture left the plant.
Panel Construction
There is also a relationship between panel construction and veneer checking. Panels should be constructed with the tight-side of the face veneer up (lathe checks down) when possible. Tight-cut veneer should be used when veneer matching makes it impossible for the tight side to be laid up. The panels should not be over-sanded, especially to the point of exposing lathe checks. Poor glue bonding has also been correlated with veneer checking. Poor glue bonds may be caused by inappropriate moisture content and temperature of panel components; improper glue mix, glue spread, assembly time, and press time; thick and thin veneer or panel substrate; among other factors. Some research suggests that five-ply construction is less prone to checking than three-ply, and hot pressed panels are less susceptible to checks than cold pressed panels. Evidence also exists that a water rinse after bleaching may also increase the chance of veneer checks.
This report presents a brief explanation of the causes of veneer checks, and discusses some of the major factors which have been shown to correlate with veneer checking. By no means, does this report attempt to address all causes of veneer checking. However, it does provide information which, when combined with logical reasoning, can help manufacturers better control veneer checking problems. By better understanding veneer checking, and taking steps to prevent it, the conscientious manufacturer is sure to reduce problems associated with this expensive defect.
(January 1997)
by
Craig L. Forbes
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