Considering a new hardwood floor? Here are some answers to frequently asked hardwood questions that have been provided to us by the American Hardwood Information Center.

Does sunlight lighten or darken a floor’s color? Does it depend on the species, the stain or the finish?

The ultraviolet rays that can burn and age our skin will affect any organic material, including wood. That’s why the finest art collections are kept in rooms without windows. Prolonged exposure to sunlight will change the color of virtually any wood floor, regardless of the stain or finish. Some woods lighten when exposed to sunlight. Others, like cherry and oak, tend to darken. The newest water-based urethane finishes seem to slow color changes more effectively than oil-based urethane finishes, which tend to turn the brownish-yellow color of amber. Some finishes feature sunscreens to help block the penetration of ultraviolet rays, extending the time it will take the wood to change.

If you’re especially concerned about your floor changing color, consider installing curtains or blinds that will limit exposure to sunlight. Windows also can be fitted with thin films of plastic that block ultraviolet rays. This type of screen — similar to those on used on some car windows — will protect your floor, furniture, drapes, upholstery and artwork from sunlight.

Is a hardwood floor a good choice for someone with allergies or asthma?

You bet. Allergists often recommend bare floors, which reduce the chance for animal dander, dust, pollen or molds to collect. Respiratory experts say as much as one-fifth of the U.S. population suffers breathing difficulties caused by allergies and asthma, often triggered by microscopic dust mites that colonize bedding, curtains and carpets. Bedding and curtains can be laundered, but because frequent vacuuming is ineffective against dust mites in floor coverings, many immunologists and allergists suggest bringing hardwood floors out into the open.

If I have a urethane finish on my hardwood floor, can I use oil-based paint for stencils?

You can, but it may not be the best choice. Many professionals avoid working with oil-based paints because they are harder to clean up and take longer to dry. With water-based paints, smudges and spills can be wiped away easily with a damp cloth. Water-based paint can be applied over oil-or water-based urethane finishes. For best results with opaque paints, consider first applying a white primer. Let the paint dry thoroughly before applying at least two protective top coats that are the same type of urethane as the base coats. Oil-based paints that are just the slightest bit wet will smear when you apply an oil-based urethane topcoat. If you aren’t sure whether your paint and urethanes are compatible, contact the manufacturers of your materials. Also, always test for compatibility by applying a little paint and finish on an extra board or in an inconspicuous spot such as a closet corner.

Are steam cleaners an effective way to keep wood floors clean?

Some models are designed for use on hardwood floors. Others are not. Check with the manufacturer to find out if your cleaner is appropriate for use on your wood floor. Remember that water is wood’s No. 1 enemy. If the finish is worn or scratched, steam could seep into your wood floors, eventually causing damage. Keep in mind that experts say the best way to clean a wood floor is to wipe up any spills immediately with a soft, dry cloth. Sweep floors regularly with a broom, dust mop or canister vacuum with special hardwood floor attachments. Do not use a vacuum with beater bars. They can cause dent your floor’s finish.

If I buy a home with hardwood floors, how can I tell if they have a wax or urethane finish?

Urethane is one of the most popular finishes in use today. An easy way to determine if your floor has this type of finish is to apply a small amount of paint remover to the floor surface. If the finish bubbles up, it is most likely a urethane. You can also try scraping up a bit of the finish with a sharp blade (also in an area hidden from view.) If you can scrape up a clear material, the finish is likely urethane.

The finish is probably wax if you can feel the wood grain when you run your hand over the floor surface. Another test is to select an inconspicuous area and try to smudge the floor surface with a fingertip, or scrape the surface with a fingernail or sharp instrument. If the floor smudges, but no clear material is scraped up, the finish is probably wax.

If you’re not certain after trying these tests, contact a reputable floor refinisher. Professionals with years of experience easily can determine a floor’s finish.

What are mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil? How about rottenstone and pumice?

–Mineral spirits are used to thin or clean up oil-based paints, stains and finishes. They also can be used to remove wax buildup on furniture and floors. Boiled linseed oil is a yellowish drying oil that serves as a lubricant. (Do not boil linseed oil: it has already been boiled.) Both of these materials can be found in the paint section at Lowe’s, Home Depot and other home centers.

Rottenstone is a fine, abrasive limestone powder. Pumice is an abrasive (harder than rottenstone) derived from volcanic glass. Either one of these abrasives can be mixed with linseed oil and rubbed on furniture to remove stains and marks caused by moisture or heat. Woodworking suppliers sell these products in stores and on the Internet. Some paint and hardware stores also carry them.

For more free information about hardwood floors, furniture, moulding or cabinets, visit the Hardwood Information Center.

Discoloration problems with resilient flooring are common and can develop from above the product surface, below the product surface or the product itself. Both bottom up and surface down problems are routine and most noticeable on lighter colored material. Due to construction characteristics a rotogravure product will stain easier from the back than an inlaid product that will almost always discolor face down. Few discoloration problems are due to a manufacturing defect. Most discoloration problems are either installation or consumer related and the wise installer will be aware of those that he can be held responsible for and take steps to prevent them.  Likewise the dealer needs to be aware of potential problems so that the installation is properly inspected and bid and the consumer is warned of potential problems.

Yellowing

• A high percentage of yellowing, possibly as much as 95% is external.

Manufacturing

• Retardant yellowing can occur in 2 -3 months in low areas.

Sun spot yellow (heat degradation)

• Looks like big freckles in a solid brown or purple.
• Found near heat registers and sliding glass doors.

Transfer From the Back

• Inks with dye will show through on face, pigments will not.
• Mildew and mould does not have to be in both the embossed and raised section.
• Has never seen a topical mildew problem on urethane.
• Asphalt tracking – It is the sealer or coating that causes the yellowing. An asphalt drive without sealer will not cause yellowing. It makes no difference what type of sealer is used. When a floor is washed it is spread and the whole floor can become yellow.
• Sealed driveways, decks, oil and grease, lawn care products, pattern, and color shape. Geometrical shape is external.
• Sun tan lotions such as Paba and Oxy with sun blocker will discolor
• Black Light
• Long wave is preferred to short wave but either will work.
• Tracking type asphalt tracking glows
• Retardant inks glow as blue white in lines
• Stains of petroleum base will glow
• Heat degradation will glow
• BHT

Adhesive – Non-recommended: A manufacturer recommends certain adhesives that have been formulated to be compatible with their floor. The recommended adhesive may cost a bit more in the beginning as often contains more expensive clays, processing oils and anti-oxidants. An improperly selected adhesive may be less expensive, but it may also contain oils that are dark in color, or have a syrup-like consistency.  The result of this adhesive is vapors from the anti-oxidant and processing oil migrating up into the material through the backing where they interact with the ultra-violet light and result in a yellow discoloration.

Adhesive – Old Latex Adhesive Residue: As with the improper adhesive, the processing oils and anti-oxidants in the old adhesive may not be compatible. If old adhesive residue is not completely removed from the old floor it may cause yellowing.  This will be more of a problem with flex floors and homogeneous vinyl’s than it will be with a felt backed product which acts as a barrier.  80 to 100 percent removal will be required depending upon the product.

Adhesive – Asphaltic Cutback Adhesive Residue.  If this adhesive residue is present after tile removal and not completely removed or covered with a suitable underlayment, it will often cause a yellow discoloration on the new floor. It is important to understand that this type of adhesive and tile may contain asbestos.

Asphalt Saturated Lining Felt: This felt will stain resilient flooring and is not recommended as an underlayment for resilient floor covering.  The lining felt must be removed or covered with a suitable underlayment.  Lining felt may contain asbestos.

Construction Adhesive: Using this adhesive to adhere underlayment to subfloor often results in a yellow discoloration.  These adhesives contain strong anti-oxidant.  It gets into the vinyl and reacts.  Typically it telegraphs at subfloor lines, nail holes or other areas where gas can penetrate.  This anti-oxidant discoloration is not correctable.

Gypsum-Based Patching Compounds and Underlayments. These products routinely contain carbon or starch. This food source for fungus spores once mixed with moisture will create an ideal environment for its growth.  Fungus / mildew growth leads to discoloration’s of many colors i.e. pastel blue, pink, yellow, orange.  The best prevention is moisture testing to assure that you are working in a dry area and the use of a Portland cement based patching compound when installing below grade or over concrete.  A gypsum-based patch for wood and dry suspended concrete is suitable, only if it is free of any food source for fungi.

Petroleum Based Products – Wood Stain, Paint, Paint Thinner, Kerosene, Heating Oil, and Oil-Based Stain: These products can often be hard to detect.  If spilled or dripped, they will penetrate a subfloor and if not completely removed before installation, they will often result in yellowing of a resilient floor.

Pink Synthetic Polyurethane Patching Material: This pink colored material, was most commonly used in the middle 80′s, it is used to fill knots and other voids in wood panel underlayment. While the material is pink, the discoloration to the floor will be yellow.  The discoloration will duplicate the shape of the patch in the underlayment.  Plywood underlayment that is recommended for use with resilient floor coverings and carry the APA (American Plywood Association mark use a safe patching material.  It should be noted that this problem was most common in mid-1980.

Reconstituted Wood: Oriental Strand Board (OSB) and Waferboard.  Some of these boards contain dark colored wood chips and strands that can discolor a vinyl floor covering.  As with other Underlayments, it is important that it be purchased from a reliable source that will guarantee the product and stand behind the problem should it occur.

Resin Coated Nails: These framing and sheathing sinkers are not designed for floor covering. While not all resin coated nails will create a problem, many will and unless you can be assured that those you are using will not, it is best to stay away from them.  Many manufacturers recommend that instead you use non-coated ring-shank or spiral-shank nails.  You can also use divergent chisel-point staples that are designed for fastening underlayment.

Tracking Stains: These are staining agents carried onto the floor by means of foot traffic.  The actual staining agent cannot always be detected but the discolorations have identifying characteristics.  Tracking stains will typically be in the traffic area or work area of a room while the non-traffic areas are not exhibiting the same discoloration.  The discoloration will usually be in the top area of the floor and not in the embossed areas (lower areas) such as grout lines.

Visual and Real Color Changes

When viewing a carpet one frequently sees what appears to be a color change, but has the color truly changed or is it something different? Has the carpet gained or lost color?

Much of the time when an installed carpet is evaluated under lighting that is consistent across the entire area being reviewed, what the eye had previously registered as a color change is found to have been no more than shadows or a difference in light reflection.

• A window or open door places light and shadows on portions of carpet and may even make it appear stained.
• The shadows cast by a piece of furniture or other fixed object may make a carpet appear to have a dark blotch in it.
• A difference in artificial lighting may make areas appear to be different colors such as making one area appear yellow or green and another area more white or blue.
• Tinted windows regardless of how light the tint can make sections of the carpet appear a totally different color.
• When a carpet is walked on the fibers bend or compact so that more light is reflected from the side of the pile in some areas resulting in lighter and darker appearing areas.
• As a carpet becomes soiled or the fiber is abraded the traffic areas may develop a gray, brown or yellow appearance.
• At other times a carpet develops stains (color added) of bleached areas (color loss). Large area color losses may also develop from heat and sun or impurities in the environment.

In part 2 we will discuss visual color change.